Sangla valley

Green haven

The life of the people at Sangla is simple and hard. They have a rich cultural legacy and a wealth of legends and myths. They follow Buddhism and Hinduism. It is believed that the Pandavas resided there while in exile. In ancient mythology the people of this region are known as Kinners, half way between men and gods! A temple known as Bering Nag, dedicated to Jagas God and a Buddhist Monastery is worth a visit. A trout farm has also been set up at Sangla by the Fisheries Department and the river therefore has plenty of fish. In fact, at the Banjara Camps there was fresh trout to complement our barbeque dinner every night... We noted that the village houses are unique examples of wooden architecture, as we went on a hike through Batseri and took photos the next day. A level cum gradually climbing path first took us to Basteri village across the Baspa river. On the cards was a visit to the temple, and then we quickly headed out of the village into the forest. About half an hour later the path took a sharp climb and went on for 30 minutes....and then we came upon our first glacier! We halted here a bit, obviously, took in the raw beauty of the serene white spread — and had a packed sandwich and juice! Across the glacier we entered the forest and there the path started going gradually upwards. Half an hour and many fascinating views later the path took a sudden descent and opened out into the valley. The vast spread of soothing yet luxuriant green and the river gurgling in between made for a beautiful sight. A perfect place for a photography halt! The next day we decided to visit Chitkul— a 45 minute drive across 19 km from Banjara Camps. The drive to was fascinating. Pine trees slowly gave way to Bhofpatra/Birch trees, and then the tree line disappeared as we reached the meadowland. The valleyopened up and we found ourselves facing the snow capped Great Himalayas beyond which lay Tibet. Perched on the side of the valley, below one of the ridges was the quaint Chitkul village. One look at it and the image of Shangri—La crossed all our minds. More so as Chitkul fell in what once used to be the Silk Route. We walked from there to Nagasthi and had a lunch hamper under the pine trees next to a rivulet on green grass, over looking the beautiful expanse of the valley. Nagasthi is the last border outpost and a short walk from Chitkul. We met some of the locals here, they were playing carom... They looked very happy indeed — and very pink! At our last night at Banjara Camps, it rained. That was preceded by a mild hailstorm earlier in the evening. So we sat around outside our tents for a while, taking in the serenity and the eternal snow view of the surrounding snowy mountains. As it started to rain, we moved in to the central tent to cosy up, and have hot soup! Some of us moved on to the large dinner tent which had indoor games like chess, cards and Spellofun with books and magazines. The next morning we left at the crack of dawn by road, back directly to Chandigarh. From there on, we took our flights out to our respective home towns. On the flight back home, my thoughts inevitably went back to our driving holiday to Sangla. The drive through lush green mountains, alongside the gushing waters of the Sutlej, the frustration at the traffic jam at the bridge construction, the bumpy rough road patch after Rampur... and the simple, pink cheeked ever smiling Himachalis... the cosy bonding in the tent at camp with a hailstorm outside... It was difficult to get back to reality. Because that meant crowds, technology, rush of work, ambition, polluted air and glittering city lights. Bangalore...Home.

Sangla Valley in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh

Serene Valley

We were a motley group of six, ranign from 8 years of age to 65, and included a photographer, a management consultant with wife and little daughter, an advertising professional, a fashion expert, et moi... All bound by a common love for the road and the great outdoors! We were headed for Sangla Valley in the Kinnaur district of Himachal Pradesh, perched at 2,700m and considered one of the prettiest of its kind in the Himalayas. And we were happily motoring along in our trusty Innova, which resisted all the provocations from road surfaces to provide a flat ride! Leaving Delhi at 6.30am sharp we drove to Chandigarh, 250 km up the NH1 to Ambala and thence NH 22. Breakfast, naturally was at a dhaba—wonderful hot aloo parathas, curd, chai and lassi, all of which was a treat for those of us from the South! But it was south Indian fare at lunch in Chandigarh, our next stop... At North Park, a green oasis a bit away from the city, enroute to Shimla. From there, fully loaded with packed fruit, beer, water and lots of eats, we forged onwards to Shimla. The route got a bit hilly from there on, with bends and a suggestion of mist, giving the mountainscape a sensuous feel. We stopped at Dharampur just before Kasauli —once again for khana: yummy kathi rolls! Nothing like a long car drive to forget about diets... Four and a half hours later we were in Shimla — with a short halt at Kasauli to visit my old school, Lawrence School Sanawar. It was lush green all around with the rains just setting in as we took in our first view of the mountains! Breathing in that fresh, cool mountain air, we reached school. Nostalgia flooded me as we entered the huge gates...A board read “Sanawar is more than a school, it is an institution”. And indeed I imbibed more than academics there: especially my lifelong passion for the great outdoors. Which is why we were driving to Sangla anyway! By 7pm we were in Shimla, spread over 12 km over the hills. I was more crowded and commercialised than in my schoolgirl days 20 years ago. As it was a typical evening, crisp and cool, we took a long walk through the mall , stretching our legs ahead of the arduous eyt beautiful drive to Sangla early the next morning. It was a 6.30am departure again, after cups of hot tea. Enjoying the early morning views of the mountains hit the road for Sangla, 265 km or approximately 9 hours away. The first stop was for breakfast at Narkanda (2708m) on the famous Hindustan Tibet Road now known rather prosaically as NH22. Aloo and mooli parathas, eggs, chai — and a heart-stopping view of the snow capped high ranges. The amateur photographer in me was inspired to click several pictures of the panorama, to catch its serenity and immense beauty forever... Coached by the professional shutterbug among us, we captured a unique view of the eternal snow line, with inviting apple orchards and dense forests. Despite wanting to linger, we had to move fast as we had another 6-7 hours to go before we reached Sangla. So no more stops except the mandatory toilet breaks — and photo-ops! And, of course, forays into the packed fruits and snacks. Rampur was our lunch break, on the banks of the River Sutlej which begins at Mansarovar in Tibet. Towards the west, gorgeous wide terraces of this river extend upto Tattapani where there are hot springs. It hosts the annual Lavi fair,when locals throng to the place for all the cultural activity, sports and colourful handicraft haats. After Rampur, it was onwards to village Jeori and Wangtu, then Karcham — from where the road really deteriorates...Even the Innova couldn’t shield us from the vicious potholes! There’s a dam under construction near Karcham which meant stony, dusty roads packed with traffic — and a delay of 2 hours! But Karcham itself is an exquisite town, at the confluence of the Sutlej and Baspa rivers. The beautiful and serene Sangla valley, our final destination, is but 18 km from there. At Karcham, we took the right side of the valley and continued through the breathtaking gorges of the Greater Himalayas to Baspa valley —also known as Sangla valley. The road from Karcham to Sangla was better, carved right into the rockface of the mountains, with a sheer drop on the other side for about 10-12 km...Which meant an exciting but challenging drive! As we approached our campsite by the Baspa river, the drive became beautiful with the evergreen lush valley stretching right up to the majestic skyline of the mountains. No was no better tonic for our tired bodies! One look at such beauty and we were refreshed. Warmly greeted by at the Banjara Camps, we rushed to unpack in the cosy tents, well equipped with comfortable beds and attached baths — and even the luxury of hot and cold running water. After a rejuvenating hot bath we settled in the large central tent for hot beverages — and a silent contemplation of the sunset. Amazing hues flitted across mountain tops, as the light faded gently into darkness. Cool air and the silence of nature, broken only by the gently gushing waters of the Baspa river. The crowds, pollution and rush of work seemed so far away

BUDDHIST CIRCUIT

• Bodhgaya, Bihar : It was here that Gautama, the prince attained enlightenment and became the Buddha.
• Sarnath, UP : It was here that the Buddha first preached Dharmachakrapravartana.
• Kushinagar, UP : The Buddha attained Mahaparinirvana right here.
• Rumtek, Sikkim: This is the largest monastery in Sikkim.
• Tawang, Assam : This monastery is one of the largest in India.

HIMALAYAN HOT SPOTS

• Jispa : A 115 km drive from Manali, look for the waterfall near River Sissu,monasteries in Keylong, meadows at darcha and a jewel like Deppak tal at 4270 m above sea level.

• Auli : One of the most pristine spots in all of Uttaranchal. It is the best ski resort in the country.

• Sarahan : Once the summer capial of the Bushahr kingdom and about 150 km from Shimla, this is known for its great walks , views and pristine tranquil environment. Do not miss the pagoda style Bhimakali temple.

• Lansdowne : A quaint military town of unspoilt beauty. Take charming walks over the slopes laden with silver firand fragrant pines Dont miss the Darwan Singh museum.