COORG

The Other Side of Today

Hugh & Colleen Gantzer were fascinated by the traditions and natural charm of Coorg and immersed themselves in its legends and rituals


EMERGING from a road winding through dense plantations of coffee, we drove into the district headquarters of Coorg Madikeri, or Mercara as the British called it. It had the well-ordered gentility of a cantonment . Houses with red-tiled roofs, snuggled in an undulating, wooded, terrain at 1,140 metres above sea level. Clearly, history and a strong martial tradition blend effortlessly in this hill-station
We drove up to the Palace-Fort . Given the Koduvas , or Coorgis , almost spiritual involvement with their heroic traditions, their heritage museum is, appropriately, enshrined in an old Anglican church. Harlequin light from the stained glass windows splashed over memorial plaques to Caucasians who had died in Coorg during the British era. The coloured light also glowed on a great swathe of Koduva history from Hero-stones , through traditional robes and weapons, to a little room dedicated to the memory of the iconic Field Marshal Cariappa.
In the fort, the old palace is now the court of the district administration. It features sculptures of prancing horses guarding its doors, heroic statues of black elephants, and a stone tortoise in a central court. For 150 years the closely-knit Koduva clans accepted the titular overlordship of the Lingayat rulers in much the same way as the Scots clans acknowledge the proclaimed rule of the Windsor family.
Three tombs, the Gaddige, of the Lingayat rulers, sit grey and squat atop a green hill overlooking Madiekeri. Their oddly Islamic features also asserted themselves in the architecture of the Omkareshwar Temple in town. The idol in this Shiva shrine was, reputedly , brought from Varanasi, possibly by Raja Lingarajendra Wadiyar. The Wadiyar rulers were aesthetes and at least one of them appreciated the horizon-spanning views of the rajas seat, now a flower-bright park where the urbane people of Madikeri unwind an evening. Alternatively, they drive out of Madikeri, as we did, to the beautiful Abbi Falls: a cascade of silken tresses over a cliff of black rocks. Legend has it that it was the favourite escape of a girl named Jessie, a chaplains daughter and was, originally, named after her. The cascade turns into a roaring tumult in the monsoon. Deep into the valley, in another direction , and up again, brought us to the unusual Talacauvery: the sacred source of this great river. A broad flight of steps led to terraces with small shrines. The main shrine is a little spring enclosed in an arch and trickling into a small pond from where it fills a larger tank. Once a year, on October 17, thousands of pilgrims stand in awe as the Cauvery renews itself: the spring bubbles, and water gushes out. After a while this subsides and the source resumes its normal flow. The entire temple complex is immaculately clean. As it stands on the slopes of the towering Brahmagiri Hill the views are horizon stretching. The Cauvery vanishes underground , shortly after flowing out of the spring. It emerges at the bottom of the hill, in the green Bhagamandala valley where it joins the Kanika river and the subterranean and invisible Sujyothi river. Many devotees bathe in the tri-confluence , treveni, allowing their sins to be carried away by the ripples of the olivegreen water.
Across the road from the confluence is the enormous complex of the Bhagandeshwara temple. We did a barefoot stroll around the shrines of this complex built in the multi-tiered style of Kerala . This temple, dedicated to all three aspects of the triune deity is said to be particularly powerful. The shrine to Lord Brahma, the Creator, is worshipped only by ritual bathing an abhisheka with Cauvery water and flowers.
At a spirited Koduva wedding, in Madikeri, we saw Punya, a beautiful bride, gracefully attempting to carry a pot of water, symbolically from the Cauvery, to her house. All the while, the male guests took turns to obstruct her passage by dancing in front of her and her two hand-maidens . They threatened to do so for five hours. This tradition, we were told, was to ensure that the bride had the stamina to bring water from the river for her family.
This custom must have originated in a land where the quest for water required a long and arduous trek. The men of that land probably wore long, black coats, turbans, and a sash holding a curved dagger: ceremonial dress for male Koduvas today. They must also have had a strong martial tradition . The Coorgis hold these in common with the ancient people of the Mashriq: the rugged land from the western border of Egypt to the western border of Iran. One group of people from this area are the Kurds who were in Alexander the Greats army when he invaded India. Interestingly , the word Kurd bears a strong resemblance to Koduva....

Q U I C K FACTS



GETTING THERE:



Air:

Mangalore and then 136 km by road or Bangalore and then 260 km by road

Rail:

Mysore and then 120 km by road

MUSSOORIE

RAIN MEME

Misty watercoloured memories drew Deepa Gupta back to Mussoorie to see if the magic still remained...


IT WAS not as if the hills were new. It was not as if it was a place unknown or unexplored. It was not as if it was less frequented. It was more known than any other hill station in the country. And yet, it held and perhaps always shall hold a special place in my heart. It was here that I had spent my summer vacations year after year as a schoolgirl. Mussoorie was like a second home for me and my family.
Tucked away in the hills and very isolated during the late 1970s and 1980s, Mussoorie was the place to be. The Mall Road did not have any crowds, Camels Back Road was more or less deserted, with only a few residents moving around doing their daily chores. And there were hardly any tourists. Back then, that is.
This time, I was ascending the hills to Mussoorie for the first time in over two decades. The climb amazingly sans traffic made me wonder if Mussoorie would be the same. The breeze was cool and the wind in my hair was calming. There is something so soothing about the hills and the greenery that you seem to lose touch with time.
The little cottages enroute, the shacks lined up along the way all were par for the course, as indeed were the occasional couples speeding past us on motorbikes like birds in flight. But at Mussoorie, I was taken aback. The entry to the sylvan hill station was jampacked with cars, far too many for the narrow hilly road. And people hordes of people swarmed around everywhere.
The weather began to play truant , and mist would envelop the entire town one minute, and then the sun would peek from behind the clouds the next. We headed for our hotel for some rest.
An early dinner later we were really hungry, and the mountain air really whetted our appetites we were out on Mall Road. The air had turned cold and light woollens seemed just right. The Doon Valley sparkled and twinkled below us like fairyland as the ice cream melted in my mouth. Yes, Mussoorie still had some remnants of its old charm!
The crowd was young and raucous but the older among them seemed to be touched by the magic of hills. Their bonhomie during late evening hours was infectious.
The next morning was bright and sunny, so we went out looking for a place to have breakfast. Though the famous Sindhi aloo kachori shop no longer existed (so we were informed by locals), there were lots of restaurants on the Mall. We settled for sambhar-vada and dosa, the aroma beckoning us more than the food!
I looked around for Picture Palace, the movie theatre that almost always showed English films. Alas, it had been replaced by a hotel , we were told. As my friend shopped for knick-knacks , I chatted with shopkeepers. Most of the shops had been there for over 50 years and I learnt that Mussoorie residents numbered a mere 40,000. The rest were tourists!
Further along, I found that the Tibetan market now sold wares more in keeping with modern day demands hosiery nightwear, slinky, short dresses... You get the drift. Popcorn vendors lined the track up to Gun Hill. It was always a treat to pop popcorns in the hills. So we did. But Gun Hill had changed. Though the cablecar carried people up, the hill was no longer visible just hotels.







IN HIGH SPIRITS


Just as we began walking, the weather suddenly turned again. Clouds came rushing in menacingly from all directions and it grew dark in the middle of the afternoon . Mist once again enveloped the scenic beauty. And before we scurried to a safe haven in a restaurant, it began to rain heavily. The wind turned chilly and hail followed. Fantastic!
From the Victorian style windows of the restaurant we watched the crowds on the Mall scurry for cover even as a group of young girls tried to hold tight to their umbrellas. They failed in their attempts and finally gave up and let go! Then they did a little jig all of them together and danced in the rain before running for shelter... Monsoon madness!
We dug into corn kababs (the most delicious I have ever had) as a group of youngsters at the next table played the guitar and had a singsong. Though our Kempty and Dhanaulti rendezvous were washed away by the rain, our spirits were high. When the rain did not let up for quite a while, we reluctantly decided to cut short the trip. It slowed to a drizzle by the time we got back to the hotel to collect our baggage, but the chill factor was unmistakeable.
Downhill, we stopped at a shack resting precariously on a rock that served yummy Maggi noodles and tea. It was there that the rain stopped, but the wind shook the cars and seemed to almost pull us into the ravines.
Our truncated trip far from sated my nostalgic yearning for Mussoorie. We would certainly return again, clouds or no clouds!

KATRA

Darshan shastra

Katra, which is a big draw for Vaishnodevi devotees, is now dotted with branded retail outlets and hospitality majors. Namrata Kohli reports

Planning a trip to Vaishnodevi Be ready for some newage interventions along the way. For starters, tickets are available online (jaimatavaishnodevi .com) to simplify the tedious process of coming to Katra and standing in unending serpentine queues, making payments and getting the parchi , your passport to darshan of the divine deity, now a matter of a mouse click. Secondly, be ready to be greeted by branded outlets at the foot of the shrine Katra. Katra, the downhill town on way up to Vaishnodevi shrine, which sees religious tourists thronging in large numbers round the year, is 46 km away from Jammu, and is seeing some heightened real estate activity.
There are already three Cafi Coffee Day outlets, of which one is between Balganga and Adhkawari (which is halfway up the Vaishnodevi mandir), the second one at Adhkawari, and the third one at Katra main market. While Baskin Robbins already has a presence here, Sagar Ratna is opening an outlet at Hotel Subhash International. The place has also been inundated with enquiries from other branded retailers such as Dominoes and Cumsun group. According to Anil Sharma, general manager of Hotel Subhash International , All these outlets bring their own equipment, systems, processes and even manpower. They are surely adding value to the place and are in turn doing brisk business. Landowners here lease out premises to these retailers and they operate as tenants paying a monthly rental ranging from approximately Rs 100-150 /sq ft/month. Shops, showrooms, hotels , and guesthouses are prime drivers of real estate in Katra. The town of Katra comprises four major roads, namely, Main Market, which is the prime commercial space, Balganga road, Jammu road, and Kashmir road. The real estate metric used here is kanal , which is equivalent to 3,600 sq ft. While the main market is choked and with no space left, Jammu road is the next prime location where the values prevailing are anything between Rs 80 lakh and Rs 1 crore per kanal. If one goes down further on Kashmir road, a lot of space is available and transactions happen even at Rs 20-25 lakh per kanal. With over 275 guest houses plus hotels, the place so far had only 20 reasonable hotels, ones which could qualify to be of the 3-star category, with average room tariff at around Rs 1,500 per day. However, three plush hotels have come up in Katra - White Orchid, K C resorts, and Country Inn, whose facilities include a swimming pool, spa, and a helipad for darshan. In residential real estate, a lot of land is available untapped and people currently stay in bungalows of minimum size of 1 kanal or 3,600 sq ft costing approximately Rs 10 lakh.
Apartments are currently not available but there is immense scope for these as well. According to a local who spoke on condition of anonymity, Most of the businessmen have tied up with locals here and set up their projects, whether it is in hospitality, or retail sector . Unfortunately, many locals look at investors as a threat and are not open to entering into partnership with an outsider , and if they do, they hold a heavy premium. But once they are here, there is no looking back and they do brisk business . However, the biggest challenge is to manage a local partner. Land is cheaper than in metros and opportunities are vast and not harnessed.
On the infrastructure front, a stadium is being planned at the Katra bus stand for conducting sports events. A university called Mata Vaishno University is coming up 8 km away and a huge cancer hospital project is in the pipeline. But the biggest infrastructure project is that of the railway station, which will take a year to take off. According to shopkeeper Nahir, The minute that project takes off, the economy of Katra will be on a super fast track and the economy of Jammu will be affected as pilgrims will all come directly to Katra, instead of via Jammu.

HARIDWAR

Holy Footprints

Sound of temple bells, sadhus chanting mantras, gurgling Ganges... Haridwar just leaves you mesmerised

Khalid Amin

MAYBE it was the gurgling Ganges, or the innumerable temples alongside the hills, or sadhus clad in saffron robes chanting holy mantras or simply the divine sanctity of the place the trip to Haridwar was a mesmerizing experience for me.
I reached the city along with my friends at 8 in the evening by train from Delhi. Knowing that you are an outsider, the autos often take tourists for a ride and overcharge on the fares. However, since I knew about this, we ended up with a reasonable bargain. We left for Kankhal, where a guesthouse was booked for us.
I woke up the next morning to the sound of the temple bells and chants from the temples nearby which I had missed the previous night in the darkness. Surprisingly, there was no fatigue from the last days journey and we felt refreshed.
Our day began with a visit to Mansa Devi up in the hills, situated atop the Bilwa Parvat, on Shivalik Hills. Mansa Devi is just 2.5 km from the main township of Haridwar. One of the major Siddhapeeths in India, Mansa Devi has two idols of the presiding deity, one with three mouths and five arms, while the other has eight arms.
We took the ropeway route also called udankhatolaby the locals to reach up there and once we got to the temple we found scores of people offering chadawa. Monkeys were a common sight everywhere. We had to hide the prasad before it was snatched away.
Next, we went to Har ki Pauri. The gurgling sound of the Ganges was audible even before we reached the ghat. Being monsoon season, the water level was high. Clinging to the iron chains provided for safety, we stepped into the holy waters and for a moment experienced a divine spirit running through us.
Believed to be the footprints of Lord Vishnu and a sacred place where Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu appeared in the Vedic era, Har ki Pauri is said to be the exit point of the river Ganges from the mountains and its entry into the plains.
Our next days destination was Rishikesh for which we had to get down from our bus four kilometers before the spot. We went ahead amidst natural beauty and steep hills followed by incessant rains. We reached Laxman Jhula and experienced the heavenly tranquillity surrounded by hills with the cool breeze blowing in from the river.
A halt at Chotiwala a popular food joint for a quick meal was the need of the hour. After some light snacks and a long tumbler full of lassi we moved ahead.
Even with the steady influx of domestic and international tourists, accommodation is never a problem. While there are restaurants which serve international cuisine, people mainly enjoy the local delicacies.
The Ganga Arti at Triveni Ghat after sunset is an experience never to be missed a group of Brahmans holding huge fire bowls in their hands offer holy mantras to river Ganges, Lord Shiva, Lord Surya and the entire Universe.

NAVI GATO R



BY AIR:

Jolly Grant Airport in Dehradun is 35 km away

BY TRAIN:

Haridwar railway station is connected with all major cities

BY ROAD:

It is 215 km from New Delhi. It is well-linked to other cities through UP transport service

PACKAGES:

Rs 2,000 per night + taxes at Alpama Hotel

The Dune in Pondicherry

Nurturing Nature

Organic food & cycling do not necessarily mean alternative living at The Dune in Pondicherry. Its turning a vision of an eco world into a resort

Nandini Raghavendra

OFF-SEASONS have their own charm less human traffic for one compensates for not being at a resort in their best season , which of course mainly refers to weather. So also with The Dune the Eco-Village at Pondicherry, about three hours drive from Chennais airport. May is definitely not the best season to be anywhere near the South of India, even if you are very close to the beach. Yet, once you enter Dimitri Kleins world, spread over 35 acres of jaw-dropping natural surroundings , weather is definitely not your focus. In fact, Pondicherry, the once French colony popular largely for The Mother and Auroville has over the last few years evolved into a destination for the discerning traveller.
Raving about a resort so aesthetically put together with uniquely designed villas and houses would be obvious for anyone with even a slight sense of design. What is different and draws ones attention within a few hours of signing into the reception (which is a desk put into an old stone structure, enclosed by red chiks on all four sides) is how carefully Klein has nurtured his vision of an eco world into a resort, of how organic food and bicycles do not necessarily mean alternative living , how a fusion of old Indian craft and modern design can be blended to suit both the eye and provide comfort, of longforgotten local tales and crafts, how the Veda spa can combine old remedies to suit individual needs without the confines of an air-conditioned room.
Dune is more than the jaw-dropping Kleins story and how he came to build Dune. A story of a man who began travelling when he was 14, backpacking across the globe, always ensuring that he had enough money in his pocket to stay in the best hotels of the world, of how 20 years ago he landed in Acapulco at Las Brisas, located on a 40-acre hill, where all the houses were painted pink and how his idea of Dune shaped over the years. I see hospitality as a bridge between people, so offering a repetitive experience does not work, says Klein who began with 5 acres nearly two years ago after convincing 27 different people to sell their plots and built his first three bungalows where his artist friends came and stayed as artists in residence. Dune has never had a master plan and nor does Klein believe in one, everything has grown organically , in fact, a day before he was to open, the dreaded Tsunami struck and washed everything away, though his friends and family were saved. All trees were gone. What we see today is all re-planted .
Klein does not make much out of the eco theme, he just lives it and serves it, like the two gourmet restaurants offering fusion organic food cultivated from its own organic farm. And believe it, once you taste the salsa made out of Kleins organic farm, you will never like any other tomatoes for life. The love for organic comes from years spent at Auroville and not being able to find a steady supply of products, saw Klein set up his own organic farms in close by Kodai. All of this does not mean that if you are spending close to Rs 20,000 for a villa you do not have the comforts of a swimming pool, tennis court or a fully equipped gym and the invigorating Ayurvedic spa. Even if has its own natural Dune, it is a hotel after all and on that there is no compromise. One warning: if you are a couch potato head to another hotel, here the choice is only for the worlds best movies in your room, but TVnyet.
nandini.raghavendra@timesgroup .com

ENJOY PORTUGAL IN GOA

A family weekend in Portugal


Youve done the beaches, lounged in the shacks, seen the nightlife and pampered yourself five-star style in Goa. Now, heres an experience that will captivate even the most seasoned Goa traveller. Its a taste of Portugal , or as close to it as you can get without leaving India.
What makes Goa so popular on the travel circuit is the laidback lifestyle the sunny state offers a rarity in these rushed times. And much of this charm can be attributed to Goas Portuguese legacy. Now, you can fully immerse yourself in that legacy at a fine luxury resort in the heart of South Goa. The Retreat, which takes inspiration from the Portuguese charm that has shaped Goa's lifestyle, is ideal for family holidays. This all-suite hotel, conceptualised and designed to give a feel of authentic Portuguese village life, offers guests a unique experience with the signature hospitality of the renowned Zuri group of hotels and resorts.
Just 40 minutes from the airport , The Retreat is located off Benaulim beach, and features 106 exquisite suites built around beautiful courtyards, complete with garden and patios to give the feeling of living in your own private luxury abode where every little detail is attended to. Its a place where theres always something to keep the whole family, including the kids, entertained . The Retreat offers daily inhouse entertainment, daily animation activities and departure gifts for kids, cookery classes for the ladies, special theme nights and more.
Much of the enjoyment of being in Goa comes from the food. And if you enjoy seafood The Retreat is the place to b The resort offers a fantastic v riety of sea food, fresh from t sea, cooked right in front of yo and served in a beautiful al fr co setting.
So, just head to The Retreat which is offering a great weekend package starting from Rs 2,800 (tax included) per person per night, insive of free stay for kids below 12 years, breakfast, lunch and dinner buffet, two way airport transfers , complimentary WIFI and a cool 20 per cent discount at the spa and on laundry. Whats more, if youre quick enough to be among the first 100 to make reservations , there are additional discounts waiting! Youd better hurry though, coz this offer is ll July 26.

For reservations write to: reservations .whitefield@thezurihotels .c om, toll free no: 18001037007. Contact Harsh Basin at 9999732327 TNN



The Retreat by Zuri, Goa

Kanwarias

SHIVAS FOOT SOLDIERS

Kanwarias are now a familiar sight during this season in the city. Theyre a motley group, united by devotion for Shiva. And Delhi has learnt to host them

Nandita Sengupta | TNN


Myself Bholenath, sab Bholenath , hollers 20-year-old Rajkumar, fist in air, bare skinny frame dripping with water, eyes excited. Friends cheer him on, all in Bermudas dyed saffron, shades and prints amalgamated into a turmeric hue. The kanwaria is supreme in his knowledge that this is his time of the year.
Rajkumar is a freelance photographer at India Gate. All 11 members in his group belong to Gurgaon. Mostly in their 20s, they are variously employed as drivers, courier boys and shop helpers. Most have no surnames . On their second kanwar, each is a Bholenath, Shivas very own, for the last 10 days.
Traffic crawls along the UP-Delhi border roads, one lane cordoned off for the walking pilgrims, mostly men. The few women walk purposefully, colourful kanwars on their shoulders . Kanwars are triangular bamboo frames. The kanwarias buy them in Hardwar Rs 80 upwards and then decorate it with multi-hued cheap plastic festoons and toys, Pokemon dumroos and Krrish posters included.
Come shravan (monsoon), kanwarias are a familiar sight across the plains of north India. From Bihar to Uttar Pradesh, Uttarakhand to Rajasthan , they make their way by bus, car or mobike to Hardwar, Gangotri and Gomukh. Having collected gangajal in their steel kalash, they make the return journey on foot, and they have to be on road till the jal charhai ceremony where they worship their favourite local Shivling. This year the ceremony falls on July 20, Monday next. The journey back home is a long walk, and they have to follow a strict regime. You cant put down the kanwar just anywhere, you must bathe every time you eat, drink or answer natures call and more.
Walking long hours means extreme exhaustion, irritability and ultimately , endurance. Its a different level of worship, says 24-year-old Sohan Kumar Rana of Behror, on his 10th kanwar. Hes quieter and not animated . He disapproves of the multiple shivirs (resting camps) that dot their route now. Especially in Delhi, half the kanwarias are petty thieves out to steal the pilgrims travel money , he says.
Rana doesnt appreciate the raucous delight of younger kanwars like Rajkumar either. He says the cocktail of bhang, bhajan and bhojan attracts newcomers for whom the pilgrimage becomes one long fest.
The rowdiness doesnt worry 30-year-old Renu Saini, who runs a beauty parlour in Nangloi. Saini is carrying her 11-month-old son on the pilgrimage in his decorated pram which doubles as a kanwar-holder . Mahadev makes sure nothing goes wrong, she says, on her sixth trip.
The kanwaria pilgrimage is essentially a bharat festival: urban India grappling to understand its growing popularity, administrators learning to cope and prepare for the kanwaria event, the police instructed to manage, not mob, and governments doing their bit to woo their votebanks . Kanwaria scholar Naresh Goswami has called the growing phenomenon a display of underbelly religiosity . They say that while the police treat them with contempt otherwise , as kanwarias they get respect , he said in a newspaper interview .
Respect is indeed in abandon. Blistered feet are rested, limbs massaged and the kanwarias fed and pampered at the shivirs. All 50 shivirs are sponsored by the Delhi government and managed by various charities. The state provides the land, DJB the water while paying for the electricity is a tricky area that the charities need to negotiate, says organiser Avdesh Kumar Verma at the Shahdara shivir. Walking over flyovers is equivalent to 10 km of plain roads, theyre dead beat when they reach here, he says.
Vivek Vihars transport businessman Kailash Goyal runs the camp at Jhilmil Colony. Its his 15th year, and his charity has 50 karyakartas and 600 daily volunteers from neighbouring areas. They cater to 10,000-12 ,000 kanwarias everyday. Volunteers, who have I-cards , work in four shifts around the clock. This year, we got a new roti machine that makes 960 rotis in an hour, says Goyal. He also has CCTVs installed and private security guards in place, many looking like bouncers.
Rajkumar and his friends have reached the shivir at Shahdara before schedule. They have till Monday to make it to their Shiv mandirs in Gurgaon . Till then, theyre simply letting down their hair basking in gods name, knowing that by next week this time, it will be back to the grind.

Changing hues of pilgrimage



Simple poori-sabzi replaced by lavish spread of chawal, roti, dal, sabzi, halwa



Old-timers find less-bhakti among newcomers



Price of kanwars can go up to Rs 51,000, which usually is a high gated one, shared by a community



KANWARS There are many kinds



JHOOLA

You can hang the kanwar but cannot keep it on the ground

DAK

The toughest kanwar. You have to run with the kanwar all the way. So a man runs with the kanwar and a team of relay runners follows in a van or a truck. This lot causes the maximum traffic jams

KHADI

You cannot hang it like a jhoola kanwar. Or keep it on the ground. So when you want to rest, somebody has to hold the kanwar and stand

BAITHI

Easiest of the lot. As the name suggests, you can keep this kanwar on the ground





FAITH I N FULL CRY: (Clockwise from left) Kanwarias wait at a camp; a baby pilgrim at Shahdara; some in fancy masks

MICHIGAN

DOUBLE DUTCH

Bidisha Bagchi found that the tulips and windmills of Holland, Michigan evoke delightfully authentic images of the real Netherlands!


WE WERE amid thousands of tulips, yet it wasnt the Keukenhof; people around us spoke in Dutch, but it wasnt Netherlands; a beautiful windmill stood tall, almost touching the sky. It was definitely Holland....
But not the European one, but a pretty town in Michigan, in the United States, just an hours drive from my home in St Joseph, a town in the same state! Holland, in fact, was the place where the early immigrants from Netherlands came and settled . They have, very assiduously, preserved their precious culture, food and tradition, so we got a wonderful taste of being in Netherlands over the weekend, without even crossing the Atlantic!
Hollands prime attraction is the beautiful windmill island; a place straight out of a picture postcard. Thousands of tulips bloom during season and the colours are just mind boggling. When we reached the island, the place was absolutely packed with visitors from all around, most of them equipped with hi tech cameras to get the best shots of the flowers. I quickly joined that group and did the same.... They were irresistible.
As we wandered around admiring the rainbow colours panning out in front of us, we came across the post house museum . Built in the pattern of a wayside inn in the Netherlands, this museum has a small show that described how windmills work. Many traditional Dutch items are on sale there too, including what else! tiny intricate models of windmills. Wax figures of Dutch villagers in traditional costumes are also displayed here and it goes without saying that its also a top photo stop.
As we were leaving the museum we heard beautiful music and noticed an organ house nearby. Inside was an antique Amsterdam street organ De Vier Kolommen or the Four Columns built in 1928 by a famous Dutch organ maker Carl Frei. This 69 metal key organ was played in Breda, Rotterdam and Amsterdam, and was gifted to the city of Holland, Michigan by Amsterdam in 1947 as a gift for helping liberate Netherlands in WWII.
As there were crowds waiting to take a closer look at the antique, we too awaited our turn to enter and listen to the music. As the music played, we proceeded to see the windmill, checking out an antique carousel on the way that featured handcarved and painted wooden horses, a Dutch village made by the early settlers, a beautiful green house with plants and windmill models of different sizes.
A simple bridge over a pretty stream took us de Zwaan the Dutch word for The Swan , a beautiful 24-year-old windmill. Brought in from Vinkel in North Brabant, Netherlands, de Zwaan was the last windmill to leave that country as present Dutch laws prohibit the sale of windmills as they are considered national monuments!
We climbed up the windmill (which is actually a grain mill) to see floor by floor how everything worked, starting with the fanning to separate grain from the chaff. From the gallery we could see the blades of the mill closely and even touch them. They were 80 ft long and 6 ft wide, weighing 3 tonnes each and had a capstan wheel that turned the top cap of the mill so that the blades could be directly pointed to the wind There was also a set of wooden shoes hanging which stood in as a mail box!
Emerging from the windmill to admire the beds of tulips surrounding the windmill again, we realised that hunger pangs had struck. So naturally we went in search of authentic Dutch dishes. A parade featuring the various communities of the city was out on the streets Holland. Traditional Dutch klompen dance was being performed by boys and girls dressed in folk costumes and wooden shoes.
But our stomachs were persistent so off we went to a caf to sample Banket, a delicious traditional Dutch almond pastry, and Stamppot, a meal consisting of mashed potatoes with other vegetables and served with smoked sausages Yum!
Next, we ventured out to see the Marktplaats , the Dutch market place where genuine Dutch arts and crafts, souvenirs, lace and most importantly, handmade quilts were sold. Needless to add, like most Indians on holiday, we emerged with lighter wallets and heavy shopping bags! No one thought of going Dutch there!

KASHMIR :PARADISE UNFOLDS

PARADISE UNFOLDS

Reshmi R Dasgupta


WOMEN engrossed in tending cattle or doing housework simply had no time to stand and stare (like their hardworking sisters elsewhere in India) but the men did, unsmilingly . Older men and women the only ones who seemed to still stick to traditional Kashmiri attire as against the ubiquitous shalwar-kameez for both sexes and Iranian-style headscarves for the women looked at us pensively as if saying, They too shall pass... And in every village, stacks of planed willow staves awaited metamorphosis into cricket bats!
Only a fair, rosy-cheeked woman selling bread at one of the countless village bakeries we passed seemed to have time for a chat. She gamely explained the various kinds of bread the Kashmiris ate according to the occasion and time of day ranging from a flatbread to macaroon-shaped buns to even a sort of doughnut. Indeed of bread there was plenty, but some of the rest of Indias most polluting habits seemed to have fortuitously found no hold here: paan and paan masala. Result: sparkling clean walls and environs!
Most of all, everywhere, simply everywhere, nature astounded us with her bounty.... It was a journey through paradise for Rs 18 a 55 km-odd train ride through verdant landscapes that seemed unchanged for centuries. I was surprised that more visitors did not opt for this hassle-free way to take a peek at another face of Kashmir.
As our red and blue train zipped along, a patchwork of eye-wateringly green rice-paddy fields zigzagged into the distance as hazy blue mountains looked down benevolently. Next season, golden yellow mustard flowers would bring forth another visage... Tall, thin poplars and luxuriant willows marked farm boundaries, their narrow frames offset by the grandiose spread of the royal chinars, heavy and wide with antiquity. Streams gurgled every few hundred yards, and birdsong marked a departure from city sounds.
When we got off the train and walked down the high railway embankments not usually the most savoury of paths we were greeted by a profusion of wild white daisies and purple thistles, not to mention ganja plants with their distinctive leaves! Further down, there were acres of orchards walnut , apricot, almond, apple their boughs already laden with ripening fruit. Smiling indulgently at my city-slicker exclamations at seeing walnuts still in their fruit stage, one of our armed escorts reached out and plucked me a couple, still in their fleshy casings. Was I in Eden No, Kashmir.
Thats why, an official informed us that a militant had been eliminated in an encounter not far from a neat, new station we stood at. The windows of another station had been broken some days before by locals angered at something that had nothing to do with the railways at all. Warnings about unattended bags were repeated over the intercom. The CRPF jawans at intervals along the track and at important bridges, also warned of the snakes that inevitably lurked in this Eden, but it was hard to dampen my feeling of exhilaration.
How could anyone be anything but excited at seeing a playful spring curving amid the walnut trees as boys splashed around, and then realising that it is the mighty Jhelum or Vaith as the Kashmiris call it, harking back to its Sanskrit name Vitasta Or seeing walnuts piled up on market floors like peanuts during a Delhi winter Or hearing the wrinkled Noor Mohd Bhat insist that just three strands of precious saffron from his crocus fields in Pampore would be enough for any biryani or sweet dish....
There was also a sense of serenity. Through the wide windows of the train I saw another reality of Kashmir, a reaffirmation that life goes on regardless in countless villages, even if the cities reverberate to the beat of geo-politics . Coaches containing normal people trying to live normal lives college girls on day trips, a bent-over village craftsman laden with wares for the market , middle-aged ladies on shopping expeditions underlined that thought.
Above all, the very fact that this train plied up and down the troubled valley thrice a day without hindrance or violence (even when everything else is brought to a halt) showed that the yearning for normalcy was as real as other more vocal aspirations .
My train-ride through paradise was truly a revelatory experience ....

Marine wonders of Atlantis, Dubai

Marine wonders of Atlantis, Dubai


Since the launch of Atlantis, The Palm in September 2008, the underwater wonderland of The Lost Chambers including unusual attractions such as the delicate moon jellyfish, busy lobster and glittery anchovies has been a top draw. Touch pools with starfish, pencil urchins and horse shoe crabs bring guests in close contact with an amazing aquatic ecosystem. Atlantis is taking the experience a step further by introducing guided back of the house tours at AED 75 per person. Led by a navigato, guests above the age of 6 experience first hand what goes into caring for the marine life of The Lost Chambers . Over 250 species are managed 24X7 by more than 150 fulltime marine animal specialists. The guests experience lasts 40-45 minutes as they are escorted around. At the end the guests can take part in a 15 minute feeding session for any one of the following: anchovy / coral, giant groupers, moray eels, piranhas, or the fish in Ambassador Lagoon.

KASHMIR UNVEILED

KASHMIR UNVEILED

A short train ride through the Kashmir Valleys green vistas and quiet village scenes thoroughly charmed and disarmed Reshmi R Dasgupta


ITS not South Africas famousBlue Train, nor is it Europes Orient Express; its not Rajasthans Palace on Wheels or even Karnatakas Golden Chariot. It doesnt have a catchy name, it doesnt cost a fortune and there is no plush service on board. In fact, the only thing it has in common with the famous luxury trains that Ive mentioned, is the promise of unforgettable vistas. Yet a brief hours ride on a spanking new red-and-blue train of the just opened Baramulla-Anantnag rail link changed my entire perception of a state that is at once iconic and unsettling: Kashmir.
As I prepared to embark on my first-ever visit to the Himalayan paradise, my teenage son protested, Are you mad Srinagar Baramulla Sopore Anantnag Dont you see how these places make it to the papers every day And youre haring off there to see a train! It did sound kind of crazy even to me, after all I was no hard-nosed reporter of militancy and Indo-Pak issues. I dealt with the good life travel, food, wine... What was I doing literally courting trouble
Yet, the prospect of actually seeing for myself a state that seemed to make it to the headlines for all the wrong reasons was too enticing to forego. Moreover, the thought that Kashmir Valley has actually got a train 155 years after the first one ran in India between Bombay and Pune in 1853 was too piquant not to explore further! How could anyone have resisted linking Paradise to the rest of India with bands of steel for so long
Thus, with equal amounts of trepidation and excitement (and perspiration given the June temperature in Delhi) I set off for Srinagar with my photographer colleague from the Times of India, Manoj Kesharwani. The 80-minute flight was scarcely enough to gulp down some soggy lunch on board before craning our necks to see the craggy, still-snowy tops of the formidable Pir Panjal range, one of the Valleys rocky guardians and the Jammu-Srinagar rail links most implacable hurdle!
On the horizon, the even higher, white peaks of the Zanskar spurs glimmered through the clouds. Was that Nanga Parbat, rearing its proud head above the other massifs Or was it my imagination, given my life-long fascination for mountains The Himalayas looked grand even from 35,000 ft, but as the aircraft began its rather precipitous descent into the Valley, they seemed to grow taller. Below, the green expanse of the valley beckoned like Shangri-La an oasis amid the bare rocks and snow.
No wonder saints and seers, emperors and philosophers , poets and travellers alike have been enchanted by the valley for millennia. I could imagine why Jehangir kept returning there with his beloved Noorjehan , why Jesus was said to have spent his missing years here imbibing its unique syncretic ethos, and indeed why India has been sacrificing so many of our men in uniform for decades to protect this valley from vivisection. This was indeed paradise, and Srinagar its entrepot!
Srinagar, for most people (this writer included) means the Dal lake, flat-bottomed houseboats and skimming shikaras, flower-laden gardens dating back to the Mughal era and handicrafts images bolstered by Bollywood movies of yore. More recently Srinagar has meant bandhs at Lal Chowk, hartal calls by the Hurriyat, burning buses, flag marches by troops in camouflage fatigues, stone-throwing , scowling young men, and tales of militant attacks and casualties in encounters . I barely saw either stereotypical image!
Of the first, I had but a glimpse every day, from the beautifully manicured lawns of the imposing Lalit Grand Palace, the century-old colonial building, once the seat of Kashmirs royal family. Today its Srinagars only five-star hotel, perched atop a hill at the head of the high-security Gupkar Road with fabulous views of the Dal Lake below. The charm of the heritage wings Darbar Hall with its magnificent jail carpet specially woven in Rawalpindi, and the centuries-old chinar trees that frame a spectacular garden breakfast buffet is irresistible.
The palaces panelled walls, old mosaic floors, and mullioned windows bespeak a different kind of gracious living than that offered by the grand houseboats anchored on Dal lake, but I was still amazed that the hotels 125 rooms, suites and independent cottages were full! Peak tourist season, never mind the tension.... What sangfroid! Even when separatists called a bandh to demand the release of their leader (under house arrest not far from our hotel!) on the day we were to leave, the staff didnt turn a hair. Just show your air ticket and the CRPF will let you through, we were told. And they did!
We whizzed through the state capital on our way to various Northern Railway sites including the superlative main station at Srinagar with its unbelievably beautiful carved wooden panelling in the portico and waiting room but that was about as much as we saw of the usual sights, good or bad. No sullen mobs, no shut shops, but yes, plenty of uniforms of all kinds, including two amiable armed J&K Police men who were there to guard our expert guide, the deputy chief engineer of the railway project.
We also couldnt miss the speeding Army convoys and eagle-eyed , armed CRPF personnel in trucks guarding hordes of Amarnath yatris in a gaggle of buses , vans, cars and tempos on the highway. At one point a speeding CRPF bus tumbled straight into a paddy field, narrowly missing an old woman. Concerned, we stopped to help. A clearly tense paramilitary officer rudely told us to go away if anything happened to the old woman, an incident might ensue and we wouldnt want to be caught in the middle of it.... We obeyed. How could life go on under the shadow of a gun, militant or military, I wondered, not surprisingly. Yet it did.
As we ventured off the highway down winding country roads (just what tourists are advised not to do) and as we looked out of train windows, a timeless Kashmir unveiled itself. Each turn brought into view bucolic village habitations with Swiss chalet-like sloping roofs full of hay. The lowing of cows and baa-ing of sheep made the atmosphere even more Heidi-like ! Only, instead of a cherubic Swiss girl, chattering little schoolboys straggling along in twos and threes, looked curiously as our Scorpio or train went by.



Greenery amid the snow capped peaks

The Lalit Grand Palace, Srinagar

Countless acres of paddy fields rolled by

Crowds like elsewhere in India, at Anantnag station

Spectacular wood carvings at Srinagar station

THE HERITAGE OF DELHI

14 MONUMENTS GET A NEW LEASE OF LIFE

Delhi Govt To Extend Protection To 13 More Structures On 2010 Games Route

Richi Verma & Neha Lalchandani | TNN


After a prolonged delay, Delhi governments plan to bring many unprotected city heritage structures under state protection has taken off. The first list of 14 monuments has been notified while another 13 monuments are awaiting approval.
With the 2010 Games just a year away, the state government had recently joined hands with the Intach Delhi Chapter for protection and conservation of 92 unprotected monuments in the city. These structures have been identified from the list of 250 monuments prepared by the Delhi department of archaeology to be provided state protection under The Delhi Ancient and Historical Monuments and Archaeological Sites and Remains Act, 2004. According to a senior official, the 92 monuments shortlisted fall in the route of 2010 Games. The government already had six monuments under its protection.
Said a senior official of the state department : Six monuments are already protected and 14 have got preliminary notification. We have sent a list of another 13 monuments to the L-G and are awaiting approval. Many of the monuments have been encroached upon and we have given the occupants two months time to file any objection on account of ownership . According to our investigations , everything has been authenticated by the revenue department and these monuments will come under the government purview very soon. Once the two month period is over, a final notification will be issued.
The project is expected to cost up to Rs 90 lakh and once the first installment of funds is released, Intach will start engaging conservation architects and experts for it. Officials said that at least four of the notified monuments had been encroached upon and the first step was to remove encroachments and provide security guards at the sites. According to senior officials, this is the first time in 15 years when monuments will get state level protection on the lines of ASI-protected buildings.
According to senior officials from the state department of archaeology, they would be notifying all 92 monuments as per an MoU with Intach Delhi Chapter by the Commonwealth Games. These monuments have been selected on the basis of their size, significance and the Commonwealth Games route. With the first 14 almost notified, we are working on notifying more monuments from the list, said a senior official.
There are 1,400 historical buildings in Delhi. Conservationists claim it is essential to protect as many of them to salvage the structures from encroachment. Under the plans laid out by the state government , each of these buildings will soon have an official board declaring its protected status in front of them as is the case with centrally-protected building. Whether a structure is under central or state level protection, it would get the same level of legal cover , said an expert.

ECOTOURISM :Going on A Green Vacation

Going on A Green Vacation

For SME hoteliers, eco-tourism offers a way to cut costs, preserve nature and offer a great vacation experience

Susanna Athaide


ITS hackneyed, timeworn and very clichd , but its true nonetheless: Green is in and green is the way to go. If youre not with us, youre against us, the prevailing attitude seems to say, and from individuals to global organisations, few can risk being seen as polluting the environment. Most organisations are bending over backwards to showcase their eco-friendly and socially responsible credentials, which have now become indispensible for business. This is as true in the hospitality world as everywhere else.
One of the rising trends in hospitality is eco-tourism . At its most fundamental, The concept of eco-tourism means being in harmony with nature and the local environment, says Manishankar Ghosh, owner of Questrails, a mid-sized adventure tourism company based in Delhi. Whether it is choosing a hotel that uses eco-friendly practices, going on nature treks and camps or experiencing the cultural heritage of a place, tourists are opting against the standard holiday plans and for locations where they can commune with nature. Many foreign tourists are interested in visiting places that have minimum adverse impact on the environment, says Serafino Cota, President, Federation of Small and Medium Hotels and Guest Houses in Goa.
In line with this prevailing attitude, tourists are increasingly choosing hotels based on their eco-friendly designs and practices. Many hotels have realised the value of this green trend and have begun to cater to this need. New hotels are built from locally sourced wood or stone and many employ solar energy, compact fluorescent lamps (CFLs) and water harvesting techniques. The hotels are designed to maximise the use of natural light during the day in order to curb energy costs. Some hospitality companies manage to have almost no direct impact on the environment. At our camp on the Ganges riverbed, we have no permanent structures. We use dry pits or chemical toilets and transport all the garbage away for disposal. Nothing is dumped in the area, says Mr Ghosh. The Greenhouse Resort at Pushkar in Rajasthan is also a tented property, but a very different one. This 20-tent boutique hotel is one of the most luxurious hotels in Pushkar, but is eco-friendly nonetheless. We use natural materials, alternative power and energy and water conservation techniques. Solar energy is used for heating water, says Saurabh Sharda, Director, The Greenhouse Resort. Existing hotels might not be able to incorporate such dramatic changes, but can start reducing their impact on the environment through small incremental changes. Those wishing to adopt green habits can easily begin reusing and recycling dry waste and composting wet waste. Replacing existing lighting and appliances with energy-efficient substitutes and using eco-friendly cleansing agents are other alterations that most hotels can make with little planning or effort. Many tourists are also showing an interest in activities or holidays that take them closer to nature. SMEs are beginning to cater to this class of travellers. Hotels collaborate with companies that provide wildlife treks and expeditions, while other companies such as Questrails provide these specialised vacation options.
Social responsibility is another aspect of eco-tourism . In the recent past, many popular tourist areas have lost much of their local culture thanks to the influx of tourists. These tourist destinations have become practically interchangeable with other tourist hotspots across the globe, and this has led to tourists exploring other locations for an authentic vacation experience. In other areas, the lucrative tourist business has attracted players from across the country and local employment has suffered a decline. Socially responsible tourism aims to remedy this situation by helping to preserve local traditions and encouraging local businesses. We employ many local people in our camps, says Mr Ghosh, Most of our provisions are bought from the neighbouring areas, even though it is cheaper to order the same from the nearby city. Guided tours offering a glimpse into the local way of life are also becoming increasingly popular, especially among foreign tourists in India.
According to Mr Sharda, Eco-tourism is still in its infancy in India. At present, there is more demand for green hospitality from foreign tourists than from domestic tourists. Mr Cota agrees, Foreign tourists will often ask for details about the green practices that the hotel follows, but this is slowly picking up among domestic tourists as well. In the domestic segment, school and college-goers are a growing market for eco-tourism . Several corporates too are choosing wilderness retreats for their seminars and team-building activities, says Mr Ghosh.
As demand for eco-friendly practices is not very widespread, most eco-friendly ventures nowadays are motivated by the principles of the owners or management rather than by market forces. With costs being the primary factor for SMEs, many may question whether the changes required to green up their practices are worth the effort and investment. However, hoteliers who have gone the green way are unanimous about the advantages. Though the initial installation costs, especially for solar energy, are on the higher side, this technology cuts down the hotel expenses in the long run, says Harinakkshi Nair, Senior Associate, HVS Eco Services. Prices for the guests too are not affected to a large extent. Mr Cota agrees, Prices dont really go up unless hotels are providing organic food, which is not very common in India. Mr Sharda, too, is confident about the benefits of eco-friendly practices, and he adds, Adopting energy and water-saving practices is definitely cheaper in the long run.
The long run seems to be the common timeframe for the success of eco-friendly ventures. There is no doubt that environmental consciousness is picking up across the globe, and this is reflected in the ever-increasing number of green products. Hoteliers should probably take into account the fact that preserving the natural and cultural heritage of their locality is essential if they wish to ensure tourist demand in the years to come. A few years down the line, ecological purity and cultural distinctiveness will be in short supply. At that time, eco-tourism could turn out to be the trump card for hoteliers, serving to distinguish their hotels and localities from the generic offerings of other tourist spots.

Kasauni

Mountain Dew

The crisp mountain air at Kasauni hits you the moment you touch base and the rains only leave you thirsting for something more

Anidra Hom Chaudhuri

IT WAS a hot sweltering Delhi afternoon when we heard the call of the wild. Our bags packed, our cameras charged, all plans in place, we decided to leave the heat and dust of the city behind us as we headed to the hills.
For the last fortnight, we were racking our brains to plan the perfect summer getaway. After going through voluminous travelogues and numerous websites, we had narrowed our search down to Gushaini and Binsar. While the former was a 15-hour drive, we failed to secure reservations at the second destination . On the brink of cancelling the trip, a friend mentioned Kausani. Ready hotel bookings put our apprehensions to rest and we set off, one Thursday for our rendezvous with pine forests and idyllic Kumaon hills.
And Kausani (at an altitude of 1890 mt) didnt disappoint. The crisp mountain air hit us the moment we touched base. From then on, as the barometer dipped, our hearts soared. Negotiating the steep curves, we reached our camp perched on one side of a ridge. Rows of potted plants greeted us and showed the way to brightly coloured cottages. After sorting out the luggage , we were given a tour of the camp, complete with open dining spaces, badminton courts and eco huts. We were specially enthused about the spectacular view of the valley.
The sun was bright but clouds hovered in patches overhead and the noisy wind rushed around the valley. As we finished lunch, the heavens opened up sending us packing to our rooms. The temperature dropped as we sat around chatting and making plans.
A sudden shout interrupted our gossip and we rushed to the doorway. Stretched out in front was the massive snow-capped Trishul range, blinking in the twilight. We stared, mesmerised , as the veil of clouds lifted and the peaks revealed themselves.
But the rain gods had other plans and soon the window closed, to be replaced with swirling clouds and mist. It was now almost evening. We decided to brave the drizzle and went out for an evening walk. A red carpet treatment was in store for us as we made our way downhill. The rainwashed tarmac was glistening in the fading evening light while red ferns and moss set the sides of the path ablaze. The light was now fading fast and the pines and oaks called out to us in the soft silence.
At the base of the of the hill was a small township. People huddled around in groups at tea stalls, sipping their evening cuppa. After tasting some local sweetmeats and stocking the larder with a fresh supply of fruits, we started our ascent.
The evening passed quickly as we lazed around. It was still early when we decided to call it a day, mindful of the falling temperature. The following morning greeted us bright and sunny. After a quick breakfast, we went for a trek along a river bed to Rudridhari, a waterfall. The route took us through a ravine dotted with huge boulders and lined with dense woods on either side. Parched and thirsty, we couldnt resist splashing around in the water.
On our way back, we befriended a local kid who showed us some Kumaoni dance moves. A few minutes there and we set off for our next stop, a tea garden. By the time we reached our camp, we were famished and in the mood for a heavy lunch. As the evening unfolded, we played badminton and chess, with steaming cups of coffee providing the necessary booster. A sudden cloudburst, accompanied by strong winds tried to interrupt our activities but we remained unmoved. When we finally retired to our rooms, we were tired but at peace with ourselves.
It was 5am when someone knocked. Outside , the pre-dawn air was charged with excitement as we waited for sunrise. All of a sudden, a reddish glow appeared and the peaks stood silhouetted against the radiance. By now the sky looked like a volcano about to explode. Slowly, as we watched in awe, a beaming sun emerged on the horizon. A brand new day awaited us.

NAVI GATO R



BY AIR:

Nearest airport is Pantnagar, 150 km from Kausani

BY TRAIN:

Kathgodam is nearest railway station, 145 km away

BY ROAD:

405 km from Delhi via Haldwani, Kathgodam & Bhowali

PACKAGES:

Blossom Hotel and Resort 3D/2N: Wooden cottage (2 beds) - Rs 4,999

Delhi : Sunder nursery

HERE S A MONUMENT TO nature

Delhis first arboretum, with over 300 varieties of trees, is coming up at Sunder Nursery. It will showcase citys ecological & historical treasures, says Richi Verma


Get ready for a world-class nursery and ecology park in the heart of the city. Sunder Nursery, virtually next door to Humayuns Tomb, is being revamped by Central Public Works Department (CPWD) and Aga Khan Trust for Culture (AKTC). Once complete, it will be Delhis first arboretum with over 300 varieties of trees. The project will be formally announced on July 12, CPWDs 155th Foundation Day.
Authorities said it was the first partnership of its kind in India aimed at developing an urban park where both ecological and heritage resources will be showcased. There are 140 species of trees in the nursery at present and some like Pink Cedar, Atalantia, Khasi and West Indian Elm are the only specimens that can be found in Delhi.
Sunder Nursery is also home to over 75 species of birds. Were bringing back all the native tree species we can think of that have deserted Delhi in the last few centuries, added sources.
There are also nine Mughal era monuments, three of which are protected by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), within the nursery premises. They are also being restored.
At Sunder Nursery, about nine acres of nursery beds have been prepared and a 2-km-long peripheral road
is nearing completion . The present entrance will be only for pedestrians with vehicles being limited to the peripheral road in the future, said an official. Landscape architect M Shaheer and environmentalist Pradip Krishen are part of the team that finalised the landscape plans.
This project will restore Sunder Nurserys position as the foremost ecological resource for Delhi and create a magnificent new urban park that showcases Delhis flora, bird life and Mughal heritage. We hope the new developments will attract more visitors, thereby increasing revenue, which can then be ploughed back into maintenance of the nursery, said D S Sachdeva , director-general , CPWD. Added Krishen, author of Trees of Delhi and a AKTC consultant : A portion of Sunder Nursery is going to become a miniature landscape that exhibits Delhis native microhabitats imagine a tiny set of rocky hillocks that mimic the Delhi Ridge, and an adjoining wilderness that features a miniature riverine system filled with plants and trees that you might have seen in the Yamuna khadar 200 years ago.
According to historians, Sunder Nursery stands on the historic Grand Trunk Road, between Purana Qila and Humayuns Tomb. The nursery was established by the British to experiment with trees that had been proposed to be planted in the new British capital being built in Delhi. It became a CPWD nursery in 1945.
The three project zones of Humayuns Tomb, Nizamuddin Basti and Sunder Nursery will be connected with walking trails. In addition, nursery related structures such as mist chambers, tissue culture lab, glass houses and a training centre are going to be built within the nursery with adequate facilities to train CPWD gardeners who visit Sunder Nursery each year for training. Specialised spaces are being created for hosting flower shows.


THE PROJECT



SUNDER NURSERY

The 70-acre Sunder Nursery abuts the Humayuns Tomb Complex and stands on the historic Grand Trunk Road. The area has been a significant Sufi graveyard and within the nursery stand nine Mughal period tombs. It is
proposed to
enhance nursery
functions, create a significant arboretum showcasing Delhis flora, carry out conservation work on the monuments to enhance the cultural significance, create new attractions and provide visitor facilities

HUMAYUNS TOMB COMPLEX

Building on the garden restoration of Humayuns Tomb, conservation work will now be carried out on the mausoleum and other buildings within the complex such as the monumental gateways, pavilions and tomb structures. The project also includes integrated development of surrounding open spaces and provision of visitor facilities and an interpretation centre

AMENITIES



Nature trails and heritage walks



Parking for 200 cars on the site



Pedestrian access aligned with Humayuns Tomb entrance



Nursery shop



Educational programmes on environment and heritage



Amphitheatre for musical performances with monuments in backdrop



Space to hold flower shows



ENVIRONMENTAL DEVELOPMENT



MICRO HABITAT

As part of the project, a micro-habitat zone/arboretum is being created, simulating a microcosm of Delhis landscapes, including kohi (hill), khadar (riverine), bangar (alluvial) and dabar (marshy) zones

PRESERVING VEGETATION

Over 140 tree species exist at Sunder Nursery at present, some of which are unique to Delhi. The proposal is to add a similar number of species mostly comprising vegetation that has been lost in the region

ULTRA MODERN NURSERY

A 9-acre nursery has been established along the northern edge of Sunder Nursery; glass houses, mist chambers, tissue culture labs, a training centre are proposed to be built here. Nursery-related activities such as selling plants, seeds, organic manure, flowers, etc, are expected to continue

BUILT ENVIRONMENT



The proposed Interpretation Centre on Ecology and Heritage in Sunder Nursery will host educational programmes



A cafe is proposed for visitors and a lakeside restaurant for fine dining



Mist chambers will host a large variety of flowers and plants



All buildings will be eco-friendly and sustainable



Vehicular traffic will be limited to the periphery



As part of nursery development project, the historical monuments will also undergo conservation to enhance their architectural integrity